Returning from Paris in June, I knew one thing: I had to go back to France, and soon. We had an ideal Paris experience, and since we need to wait at least a few months before visiting again, I thought I’d share a few of our favorite places with you.
Where to Sleep:
1. Where the locals do. If possible, avoid hotels and hostels. They’re expensive and generally underwhelming (unless you happen to have buckets of money). We were lucky enough to stay at the apartment of my Parisian hairdresser. She and her husband live in Austin for most of the year but keep a small studio in Central Paris for their quarterly visits home. We had our own kitchen, a small but adequate bathroom, and the privilege of a house key instead of a hotel card. There are tourists everywhere in Paris, so the more you can blend in, the better. If you want to get in contact with my hairdresser, send me an email at monet@cakestandbakes.com. I’ll be happy to send you her contact information.
Where to Wander:
1. Museums. The Musee d’Orsay was easily our favorite. I’d recommend you buy a museum pass, or plan to buy admission into the Museum at least twice. There are too many time-worthy exhibits to take in during one visit.
2. Paris: Made By Hand. This beautiful, pocket (or purse) sized book takes you through some of the most hidden and charming streets of Paris into the workshops and stores of artists and makers. From pottery to umbrellas, from jewelry to dresses, stylist, Pia Jane Bijirk has found true treasures. We went to a few “touristy places” but spent the majority of our trip finding these carefully curated designers. AMAZING. GET THE BOOK NOW.
3. Deyrolle. Let’s just say that Deyrolle was closed on Tuesday because Wes Anderson was doing a photo-shoot there. Enough said, right? But truly, this is one of the most amazing stores I’ve ever visited. Hundreds of stuffed animals, delicately preserved butterflies, and men and women wearing sharp vests. Who would have thought a taxidermist could inspire such awe?
Where to Eat:
1. Du Pains et Des Idees. Throw all plans out the window if they don’t begin and end with this bakery near the Canal St. Martin. I first heard about Du Pains et Des Idees from Bon Appetit. And although we had to wait a few days to visit (this artisinal bakery is closed on the weekends), it was love at first bite. Christophe Vasseur knows how to make bread. He says on his site, “It all began many years ago, when, as a child, I began to see the craft of baking as both a way to create and to communicate. For me, it was (and is) a way to give shape and life to my emotions, using only raw materials and my hands.” Using time-honored traditions, he gives his community the quality and passion that has sadly disappeared from many bakeries in Paris. Eat everything you can here. My personal favorite: la chausson a la pomme fraiche. We bought four to take on the flight home.
2. Le Pantruche. We also had to wait for a weekday to dine at this gourmet bistro in Montmartre. And once again, we weren’t disappointed. Our four course meal was perfect. Focusing on local and fresh ingredients, La Pantruche creates dishes full of flavor and charm, without the stuffiness of many fine French dining experiences. While not cheap, this bistro is affordable when you consider the quality of its dishes. Chalkboard menus, charming wait-staff, and an intimate dining room made this our favorite dinner experience.
From Food Wine and Style
3. Hugo and Victor. Chocolate and tarts and glass domes. We bought a box of chocolates and a bright citrus tart that we enjoyed while people watching in the Luxembourg gardens.
4. Pink Flamingo. If you want a fun break from typical french food, take a seat in the Pink Flamingo’s fabulous VW van. While the food wasn’t my favorite, the atmosphere was a nice change. And wandering through Marais after enjoying a few slices of pizza is a great end to a long day.
5. Bread and Roses. When you walk into Bread and Roses, you’re greeted by friendly and beautiful faces behind a glass deli counter. Rounds of cheese, hunks of ham, and a variety of cold salads await your eyes. Ryan and I sat at a wood table, with a single pink rose blushing between us, and enjoyed a lunch I’ll remember as one of the very best. The Luxembourg gardens are just around the corner, so sit for an hour or so after a stroll in the park.
6. L’As du Fallafel. I first read about this middle-eastern joint in the NY Times. When Mark Bittman said, “the falafel is so good that this is the one culinary destination in town I never skip,” I knew we had to visit, at least once. In a city full of stuffy and expensive dining, L’As du Fallafel is the perfect antitode. Fresh pitas stuffed with fried balls of chickpea, creamy hummus, and pickled cabbage are simply OUT OF THIS WORLD. We went back three times. And I left wishing we’d visited a fourth.
7. Breizh Cafe. This restaurant makes it into most Paris tour books, but don’t be dismayed ( you pretentious folks), this place is still worth the visit. Traditional buckwheat crepes with carafes of cider are a must. Also a must? Reservations. Because like I said, this cafe gets around.
8. Claus. Okay. I almost cried when I took my first bite of scrambled eggs. The Parisians typically don’t make a big to-do about breakfast, so if you’re hankering for something more substantial than a croissant, visit Claus and eat the eggs. And the museli too. I never thought oats could taste this good. The waitstaff is friendly, sharp, and more than happy to make breakfast the most delicious meal of the day.
If you have anymore questions or ideas, send me an email or a tweet or a facebook message. And if you want to sponsor my next trip to Paris, we’re all in. Smile.
Oh Monet! I am itching to return to Paris, it’s been way too long! I have already pinned/bookmarked your recommendations, but to be honest, the one I am most keen on is L’As du Fallafel. The best falafel I have ever had was on the streets of Israel, and nothing since has compared. I would love to go here and test it out for myself 🙂
Hope you’re having a lovely Sunday dear friend! xo
I have never been to Europe, especially, Paris and I know that I have been missing out for years. However, after reading your “Must-Do-Paris” post, I am going to make Paris a Must-do on my list for this next year. Thanks, Monet for sharing!!
Best line ever: “Okay. I almost cried when I took my first bite of scrambled eggs.” I feel like at least one of my meals does this to me whenever I’m in Europe. It happened to me in Rome at this lovely little restaurant called Cul de Sac. They made a fresh ravioli stuffed with ricotta and topped with a light sauce of butter, pistachios, and orange zest. Simply divine. Thank you for the Parisian post – I’ve never been, but when I go, I will surely revisit your list. 🙂
You look like you belong there, Monet! You may take on a third career — baker, writer, travel guide!
I will be returning to this post in the next few months for sure, as we are hoping to visit Paris next spring. You’ve definitely whetted my appetite!
Monet, could you possibly be any lovelier? You look like you are absolutely in heaven. I would adore a trip to Paris. Feel free to find a sponsor for your next trip and then point them my direction next!
God your trip sounds heavenly my friend – learning French, one day I plan to travel there and this post inspires even more 😀
Cheers
Choc Chip Uru
I’ve never been to paris but I definitely plan on going someday and using some of these awesome tips!
You are just adorable! How much fun is this? Thank you so much for sharing! I have never been, but I really do want to go to Europe someday. If I ever make it Paris, you are the girl I am calling!
Oh this post makes me want to return to Paris and really soak it all in. I am bookmarking this for when I do get the chance to return…hopefully it will be sooner than later! p.s. I love your coat in the opening picture!
It has been years since I’ve been to Paris and I love reading your guide here. It makes me want to head back across the pond and try all of your recommendations.
I hope you are able to go back soon and publish a follow up to this guide!!!!
Have a happy Monday Monet
Your blog is really an enlightenment for us readers! Thank you very much!
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I come for the recipes and I stay for the pictures… A friend of mine is going to be staying in Paris for 3 months. Can’t wait to show her this post.
Thanks for sharing this post with me Sara! Looking forward to checking out some of Monet’s favorite places in Paris!
I loved seeing the pictures of you in Paris. I felt like I was right there with you, tasting the food, smelling the aroma. For lunch now I am really craving a delicious Fallafel! Thank you for sharing your trip!
I’ve never been to France although I dreamt of it back in my high school days of French class. (Then again, I dreamt of Italy in college in my Italian courses but I’ve yet to go there too.) Both someday and I will gladly use your guide-it’s amazing! Love the pics too. And we might contact you about your hairdresser in the future. ; )
Kyle and I were eating falafel at a restaurant in Chicago last night. While it was very tasty, it couldn’t touch the falafel we had at L’as du Fallafel when we visited Paris. We are spoiled for life! I would SWIM back to Paris for another one of those.
Hi Lauren! Ah! You’ve been. You understand the obsession! It is so so good. We forwent a fancy restaurant on our anniversary so we could go to L’as du Fallafel again.
Feel like I just made a trip to Paris! Learned a long time ago that it is best to go where the locals go…thanks for the inside tips! I’ll have to remember this post!
Oh man, I miss Paris. I lived here for 7 months studying abroad. Most of your suggestions are new to me but I am now longing for a visit and absolutely starving.
Monet you look gorgeous on your pictures, and those are amazing pictures. I love Paris and would love to visit. Thank you for this post, it is very helpful too.
Great summery Monet. Although I lived in Paris for about 18 months ago, I’m always keen to read up on others recommendations.
Musée Rodin is a lovely place to visit if the weather is good.
The patisserie shops of Sadaharu Aoki and Pierre Herme are worth a visit and generally soaking up the atmosphere of Le Marais.
Did you visit Marché aux Fleurs opposite from Place du Châtelet?
Beautiful photo opportunity. When are you going back?
Great post. I can almost feel like I was in Paris, too. Almost… 🙂 Great photo of you and your hubs!
Can I just tell you how jealous I am? I would love to see Paris. More importantly, I would love to eat in Paris. All that food…the bread…the chocolate! You certainly ate like royalty!
Monet, you have inspired me to grab my French cookbooks again. I love, love love all things French. This is a wonderful post. Felt as if I were walking the streets with you. The photos are sensational.
What a lovely write-up of one of the most charming cities in the world. My daughter might want to e-mail your hairdresser! She’s itching to get to Paris! It will happen! Glad you’re already planning to return. It does capture the heart.
can’t wait to check out some of these tips next time I go to Paris! great post!
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