Returning from Paris in June, I knew one thing: I had to go back to France, and soon. We had an ideal Paris experience, and since we need to wait at least a few months before visiting again, I thought I’d share a few of our favorite places with you.
Where to Sleep:
1. Where the locals do. If possible, avoid hotels and hostels. They’re expensive and generally underwhelming (unless you happen to have buckets of money). We were lucky enough to stay at the apartment of my Parisian hairdresser. She and her husband live in Austin for most of the year but keep a small studio in Central Paris for their quarterly visits home. We had our own kitchen, a small but adequate bathroom, and the privilege of a house key instead of a hotel card. There are tourists everywhere in Paris, so the more you can blend in, the better. If you want to get in contact with my hairdresser, send me an email at monet@cakestandbakes.com. I’ll be happy to send you her contact information.
Where to Wander:
1. Museums. The Musee d’Orsay was easily our favorite. I’d recommend you buy a museum pass, or plan to buy admission into the Museum at least twice. There are too many time-worthy exhibits to take in during one visit.
2. Paris: Made By Hand. This beautiful, pocket (or purse) sized book takes you through some of the most hidden and charming streets of Paris into the workshops and stores of artists and makers. From pottery to umbrellas, from jewelry to dresses, stylist, Pia Jane Bijirk has found true treasures. We went to a few “touristy places” but spent the majority of our trip finding these carefully curated designers. AMAZING. GET THE BOOK NOW.
3. Deyrolle. Let’s just say that Deyrolle was closed on Tuesday because Wes Anderson was doing a photo-shoot there. Enough said, right? But truly, this is one of the most amazing stores I’ve ever visited. Hundreds of stuffed animals, delicately preserved butterflies, and men and women wearing sharp vests. Who would have thought a taxidermist could inspire such awe?
Where to Eat:
1. Du Pains et Des Idees. Throw all plans out the window if they don’t begin and end with this bakery near the Canal St. Martin. I first heard about Du Pains et Des Idees from Bon Appetit. And although we had to wait a few days to visit (this artisinal bakery is closed on the weekends), it was love at first bite. Christophe Vasseur knows how to make bread. He says on his site, “It all began many years ago, when, as a child, I began to see the craft of baking as both a way to create and to communicate. For me, it was (and is) a way to give shape and life to my emotions, using only raw materials and my hands.” Using time-honored traditions, he gives his community the quality and passion that has sadly disappeared from many bakeries in Paris. Eat everything you can here. My personal favorite: la chausson a la pomme fraiche. We bought four to take on the flight home.
2. Le Pantruche. We also had to wait for a weekday to dine at this gourmet bistro in Montmartre. And once again, we weren’t disappointed. Our four course meal was perfect. Focusing on local and fresh ingredients, La Pantruche creates dishes full of flavor and charm, without the stuffiness of many fine French dining experiences. While not cheap, this bistro is affordable when you consider the quality of its dishes. Chalkboard menus, charming wait-staff, and an intimate dining room made this our favorite dinner experience.
From Food Wine and Style
3. Hugo and Victor. Chocolate and tarts and glass domes. We bought a box of chocolates and a bright citrus tart that we enjoyed while people watching in the Luxembourg gardens.
4. Pink Flamingo. If you want a fun break from typical french food, take a seat in the Pink Flamingo’s fabulous VW van. While the food wasn’t my favorite, the atmosphere was a nice change. And wandering through Marais after enjoying a few slices of pizza is a great end to a long day.
5. Bread and Roses. When you walk into Bread and Roses, you’re greeted by friendly and beautiful faces behind a glass deli counter. Rounds of cheese, hunks of ham, and a variety of cold salads await your eyes. Ryan and I sat at a wood table, with a single pink rose blushing between us, and enjoyed a lunch I’ll remember as one of the very best. The Luxembourg gardens are just around the corner, so sit for an hour or so after a stroll in the park.
6. L’As du Fallafel. I first read about this middle-eastern joint in the NY Times. When Mark Bittman said, “the falafel is so good that this is the one culinary destination in town I never skip,” I knew we had to visit, at least once. In a city full of stuffy and expensive dining, L’As du Fallafel is the perfect antitode. Fresh pitas stuffed with fried balls of chickpea, creamy hummus, and pickled cabbage are simply OUT OF THIS WORLD. We went back three times. And I left wishing we’d visited a fourth.
7. Breizh Cafe. This restaurant makes it into most Paris tour books, but don’t be dismayed ( you pretentious folks), this place is still worth the visit. Traditional buckwheat crepes with carafes of cider are a must. Also a must? Reservations. Because like I said, this cafe gets around.
8. Claus. Okay. I almost cried when I took my first bite of scrambled eggs. The Parisians typically don’t make a big to-do about breakfast, so if you’re hankering for something more substantial than a croissant, visit Claus and eat the eggs. And the museli too. I never thought oats could taste this good. The waitstaff is friendly, sharp, and more than happy to make breakfast the most delicious meal of the day.
If you have anymore questions or ideas, send me an email or a tweet or a facebook message. And if you want to sponsor my next trip to Paris, we’re all in. Smile.
